When deciding which materials to use my choice seemed simple: knits.
I chose knits because i thought it would go well with the idea, my aesthetic and the fact that knits are apparently better for the environment; less processing etc. Easy. Simple. Fun.
WRONG! Little did i know that it was practically impossible to find someone who works with knits in bangalore. The machines that are used for jersey materials are different from the normal sewing machines which i was aware of, but turns out only large scale manufacturing units possess them. Here i am again, small scale designer (to be, which i think in this case is definitely an advantage) getting lost between the humungous orders of mnc’s.
After a week of desperate phone calls and visits to large amounts of people, where the answer was either i’m sorry mam we dont do knits or we take a minimum order of 500 pieces only, my only option seemed to be to take help from father dearest again. ( My father works with organic cotton farmers and has in the past supplied cotton to various ethical clothing brands) So he put in a good word for me to a former colleague and off I was to Tirupur.
Once in Tirupur, we had very little time. My designs were ready but since i’m not a fashion designer, my pattern making skills are not optimal, which meant that the patterns and my designs had to all be made in one day.
I started my day off at a deserted factory, with an if i may be blunt exceptionally daft pattern master. After 2 hours of explaining what i wanted over and over again we finally had some patterns. But i felt like i could have probably done better myself. Not a very good feeling. Thankfully the guy who was helping me out seemed to think the same and so he took me to another pattern master in another factory. This guy was great, he understood exactly what i was talking about and made my patterns in just about half an hour. He also got a mock up stitched really quickly and made necessary corrections.
We were then off to yet another factory to get my t-shirts stitched. (i must tell you getting these t-shirts stitched was definitely not the best for the carbon footprint of my project) By then i was exhausted from being carted from one end of the city to another. On the way i was nearly tempted into buying some surplus stock “branded” t-shirts, but keeping the principles of my project in mind i politely refused. Besides the day was coming to an end and i had to leave early the next morning.
So to the production unit we go, where i find out that the unbleached cotton jersey that i bought has not been processed to be work with yet. Which means that my t-shirts are probably going to get twisted once i wash them. Brilliant, uptill now i thought i had made a responsible decision but i guess i was slightly wrong there. I guess these prototypes will have to stay prototypes and can’t end up in my cupboard to be worn over and over again.
The patterns were then cut and stitching could begin, so far so good. But then, another problem surfaced. T-shirts need piping on the neckline and yes there’s a seperate machine for that. The unit was in the middle of a production which needed a 2 cm piping, which was way to broad for my liking, but changing the size of the piping on the machine takes 2 hours, this meant that my t-shirts could not possibly be finished by the end of the day. I guess wantting to finish everything in one day was a bit too ambitious anyway.
The whole t-shirt experience has taught me a lot. Once again i have been confronted by the fact that things are not easy to do on a small scale. Which makes it all the more difficult for designers who want to make a change little by little.
One thing that i noticed when i was in tirupur was women sitting on the side of the road picking apart pieces of jersey. When i asked what they were doing, i was told that these women take apart the waste from the factories which is then used as cleaning material or filling for car seats. This to some extent was a comforting thought., because the amount of fabric that gets wasted is substantial. Although i still feel that we need to reduce the amount of waste that is generated in the first place.